The ramparts where dreamyeyed soldiers once sat and penned letters to their loved ones back home has become a feasting ground for crows fighting over leftovers. The crash of the waves is now drowned by the drone of traffic. The alleys once graced by the swish of silk gowns are now the turf of veshti-clad politicians and sober military men.

Recollections may differ, but most agree that walking within Fort St George often feels like turning to a new chapter in a history text book.

“There are buildings dating back to the 17th century and the more recent ones from the 1950s. All of them have a story,” said K R A Narasaiah, an ex-Navy personnel who stayed in the fort in 1959. Narasaiah, who is also a history enthusiast, recalls spending his nights in a big airy room, just north of the fort museum. “Life wasn’t easy as the water was salty and the mess food horrible. But I used to look forward to my evening walk. There was this eerie and exciting feeling while watching the silhouette of these historic buildings at dusk,” he said.

Stories abound in Fort St George, which now serves as one of the administrative headquarters for the legislative assembly of Tamil Nadu and houses a garrison of troops. Built in 1644 on a piece of land purchased by the East India Company from a Vijayanagar chieftain named Damerla Chennappa Nayaka, the fort (referred to as White Town) faced the sea and was a hub of merchant activity. Historians say modern-day Madras evolved from the villages that surrounded the fort, which was more than an epicentre for trade.

“With six metre high walls, the fort also withstood a number of assaults in the 18th century,” said Vakula Varadarajan, who conducts heritage walks.

Relics in the 18th century fort museum, which once housed Madras Bank, are vestiges of this history. Noted officers from the colonial period stoically look out of framed paintings that adorn the walls, mammoth chests that once ferried goods across the ocean lie sealed and coins that changed numerous hands lie behind glass cases.

“But, it is St Mary’s church that encapsulates the real history of the fort,” said Varadarajan. Built between 1678 and 1680, it is the oldest Anglican church in India. “The church teems with stories that lie interred in the tombstones or entered in the wedding and birth registers,” he said. Other buildings of importance are Admiralty House, where Clive once stayed, Old Government House and Banqueting Hall (now Rajaji Hall), grand arsenal and King’s Barracks.

However, like most heritage monuments in the city, the signs of decay are clear. Quite a few buildings within the fort’s precincts are a picture of neglect. But what ASI officials are more concerned about is the renovation of the more recent Namakkal Kavignar Maaligai close to St Mary’s church. “The state government asked us for permission to undertake repair works, but there are obvious signs that they are deviating. Construction work so close to protected structures will take a toll on them,” said an ASI official.

A member of the Heritage Conservation Committee under the Chennai Metropolitan Development Authority said the renovation work was meeting all the norms. “The structure needed serious repairs and was posing a risk to the public. The project went through various committees before it got the go-ahead. Yes, safety of the heritage structures close by is a concern, but we’ll also have to keep public safety in mind,” said a member.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com /  The Times of India / Home> City> Chennai / by Ekatha Ann John, TNN / April 18th, 2014